SURFING AS A PASSION

"SURFING IS 90% SURFER 10% BOARD" TOM CURREN SAID THAT. THE TRUTH IS IF YOU COULD RIDE A DOOR YOU WOULD, LONG,SHORT,FAT OR WIDE, SURFING IS SURFING.

OFF SUBJECT NOW:

JUST READ AN ARTICLE THAT SAYS THAT SURFING IS AN "ANTI-SOCIAL" SPORT, RESEARCHERS NOTED THAT PARTICIPENTS IN THIS SPORT WERE MORE LIKELY TO BE WITHDRAWN FROM SOCIETY AND SUFFER FROM ADDICTION ISSUES? IN MY OPINION IN A WAY, SURFING IS AN ANTI-SOCIAL SPORT, BUT THE ADDICTION PART IS A LITTLE FAR FETCHED. ANTI-SOCIAL? , IF THAT MEANS DON'T CROWD ME IN THE LINEUP, OR DONT BURN ME ONA WAVE, OR WANTING TO JUST CATCH A FEW WAVES WITH NO ONE OUT, THEN MAYBE YES IT IS? BUT WHO'S TO SAY

ME PERSONALLY CROWDED LINEUP'S MAKE ME AGRRESSIVE, WANT TO GET CURSED OUT, TRY ME. BUT ALWAYS MANAGE TO FIND THE WEAK SPOT, WHERE A GOOD WAVE IS COMING, AND MOST KIDS PADDLING ARE GOING STRAIGHT.

SURFING IS A PASSIONATE SPORT YOU HAVE TO LOVE IT TO UNDERSTAND IT, MOST PEOPLE DONT UNDERSTAND WHY YOU WOULD GO OUT IN FREEZING WEATHER HAVE NUMB TOES AND FINGERS, FOR WHAT? THE LOVE OF A SPORT THE FEELING OF COMING DOWN THE LINE AND WHACKING THE SHIT OUT OF THE LIP, OR PULLING INTO A NICE LITTLE BARRELL, KNOWING IF YOU DONT MAKE IT A NICE COLDFLUSH THROUGH YOUR SUIT AWAITS YOU, LIKE I SAY THAT WHY YOU PEE IN YOUR SUIT , TWO CUPS OF COFFEE AND A TALL WATER IS ALL THE FREE HEAT YOU NEED!!!

HEARS A PICTURE THAT I WISH THE PERSON TAKING THE PHOTO SNAPPED IT THAT SPLIT SECOND LATER WHEN THE TAIL WAS OUT OF THE WATER BUT WHEN DEALING WITH A PHOTOGRAPHER WHOSE MEDIUM ISNT SURFING THIS IS WHAT YOU GET.....