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surf cams, reports, forcasts

Wednesday, January 27, 2010

A BIRDS EYE VIEW


CAN'T BELIEVE THIS STRETCH OF SEMI-WARMER WEATHER, MAKES ME LONG FOR REALLY HOT WEATHER, WELL BACK TO MY DAY DREAMS OF WARMER WEATHER...... IT'S STILL ONLY JANUARY.

Tuesday, January 19, 2010

KIND OF FUNNY


MY GOOD FRIEND, FUTURE INLAW CHRIS, HAS A BLOG CALLED "STRANGE FLORA"

LOOKING BACK I STARTED THIS BLOG IN 2005, ONLY NOW TO TAKE FROM HIS INSPIRATION AND START ANEW AND FOR THAT i WOULD LIKE TO THANK HIM.

PERFECT EXAMPLE OF NEED TO PUT AUTO SHUTTER @9 FRAMES PER SECOND, IT IS A HIGH TECH CAMERA NOT LIKE YOUR WASTING FILM?

SURFING AS A PASSION


"SURFING IS 90% SURFER 10% BOARD" TOM CURREN SAID THAT. THE TRUTH IS IF YOU COULD RIDE A DOOR YOU WOULD, LONG,SHORT,FAT OR WIDE, SURFING IS SURFING.


OFF SUBJECT NOW:


JUST READ AN ARTICLE THAT SAYS THAT SURFING IS AN "ANTI-SOCIAL" SPORT, RESEARCHERS NOTED THAT PARTICIPENTS IN THIS SPORT WERE MORE LIKELY TO BE WITHDRAWN FROM SOCIETY AND SUFFER FROM ADDICTION ISSUES? IN MY OPINION IN A WAY, SURFING IS AN ANTI-SOCIAL SPORT, BUT THE ADDICTION PART IS A LITTLE FAR FETCHED. ANTI-SOCIAL? , IF THAT MEANS DON'T CROWD ME IN THE LINEUP, OR DONT BURN ME ONA WAVE, OR WANTING TO JUST CATCH A FEW WAVES WITH NO ONE OUT, THEN MAYBE YES IT IS? BUT WHO'S TO SAY


ME PERSONALLY CROWDED LINEUP'S MAKE ME AGRRESSIVE, WANT TO GET CURSED OUT, TRY ME. BUT ALWAYS MANAGE TO FIND THE WEAK SPOT, WHERE A GOOD WAVE IS COMING, AND MOST KIDS PADDLING ARE GOING STRAIGHT.


SURFING IS A PASSIONATE SPORT YOU HAVE TO LOVE IT TO UNDERSTAND IT, MOST PEOPLE DONT UNDERSTAND WHY YOU WOULD GO OUT IN FREEZING WEATHER HAVE NUMB TOES AND FINGERS, FOR WHAT? THE LOVE OF A SPORT THE FEELING OF COMING DOWN THE LINE AND WHACKING THE SHIT OUT OF THE LIP, OR PULLING INTO A NICE LITTLE BARRELL, KNOWING IF YOU DONT MAKE IT A NICE COLDFLUSH THROUGH YOUR SUIT AWAITS YOU, LIKE I SAY THAT WHY YOU PEE IN YOUR SUIT , TWO CUPS OF COFFEE AND A TALL WATER IS ALL THE FREE HEAT YOU NEED!!!


HEARS A PICTURE THAT I WISH THE PERSON TAKING THE PHOTO SNAPPED IT THAT SPLIT SECOND LATER WHEN THE TAIL WAS OUT OF THE WATER BUT WHEN DEALING WITH A PHOTOGRAPHER WHOSE MEDIUM ISNT SURFING THIS IS WHAT YOU GET.....

Sunday, January 17, 2010

rain,rain, go away thank god it's not snow, if it was, that would suck, winter sucks!!!!!

The Oceans Winter Blanket


Seems that the ocean has pulled her blanket over her head and settled in for a winter nap, I think it may be from the exhaustion of constent swell up to this point, It almost seems like a human trait and every once and a while I think the ocean needs to take a break to recoupe?


Been trying to keep this up to date but sometimes life doesnt always let you do that:


time for photo's

Sunday, January 03, 2010

DO YOU REMEMBER THE FIRST WAVE YOU CAUGHT? IF YOU DONT YOU PROBALLY DONT REALLY SURF, IT'S LIKE THE FIRST TIME YOU KISS A GIRL, OR BOY, OR HOWEVER YOU DO IT, YOU DONT FORGET, I REMEMBER IT CLEAR AS DAY IT WAS A HEAD HIGH IN STONE HARBOUR COMPLETLEY JAM PACKED WITH PEOPLE , RIDING MY TRUSTY 6'8 HIC BOUGHT FOR 75 DOLLARS FROM ASHER NOLAN. PINK LEASH NO TRACTION. BASICALLY TOOK OFF SPEARED ANOTHER GUYS BOARD WENT THROUGH THE WASHING MACHINE, UP ON THE BEACH PUNCHED IN THE MOUTH.

FIRST EXPERIENCE WITH SURFING, LATER THAT DAY ENDED UP GETTING MY REAL FIRST RIDE, HELL OF A WAY TO START OUT, BUT IT JUST GOT BETTER FROM THERE.

SO NO MATTER WHAT NEVER FORGET THAT FIRST WAVE, IT'S WHAT KEEPS THE STOKE UP!!!! i STILL CATCH MYSELF DOING TURNS IN THE HOUSE WHEN NO ONE IS LOOKING

8:00 Sun 1/3/10

After reading my last post from how long ago it was, time has kind of changed that outlook, with the birth of my daughter, buying a house, the economy crashing around everyone(at least anyone concidered middle class america) giving life advice is not going to work. so now on to other things.......

this blog will cover just about everything surf related family related whatever....

the start of a new year time for changes that need to be made, keeping promises to yourself are harder than yourself or anyone would ever think. time to stop smoking get on a health kick that sticks(poem and didnt know it) making 2010 a year to make the impossible possible..... thanks for listening

Random acts of senseless nonsense to come