DO YOU REMEMBER THE FIRST WAVE YOU CAUGHT? IF YOU DONT YOU PROBALLY DONT REALLY SURF, IT'S LIKE THE FIRST TIME YOU KISS A GIRL, OR BOY, OR HOWEVER YOU DO IT, YOU DONT FORGET, I REMEMBER IT CLEAR AS DAY IT WAS A HEAD HIGH IN STONE HARBOUR COMPLETLEY JAM PACKED WITH PEOPLE , RIDING MY TRUSTY 6'8 HIC BOUGHT FOR 75 DOLLARS FROM ASHER NOLAN. PINK LEASH NO TRACTION. BASICALLY TOOK OFF SPEARED ANOTHER GUYS BOARD WENT THROUGH THE WASHING MACHINE, UP ON THE BEACH PUNCHED IN THE MOUTH.
FIRST EXPERIENCE WITH SURFING, LATER THAT DAY ENDED UP GETTING MY REAL FIRST RIDE, HELL OF A WAY TO START OUT, BUT IT JUST GOT BETTER FROM THERE.
SO NO MATTER WHAT NEVER FORGET THAT FIRST WAVE, IT'S WHAT KEEPS THE STOKE UP!!!! i STILL CATCH MYSELF DOING TURNS IN THE HOUSE WHEN NO ONE IS LOOKING
Sunday, January 03, 2010
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